Every Nail Biter Needs to Know About Structured Manicures

Posted on August 18th, 2022.

Take it from me, a chronic nail-biter and cuticle-picker: This advanced technique may take two to four hours to complete, but the finished look is worth every second.

I've been biting my nails, cuticles, and the skin surrounding them for as long as I can remember, and as hard as I've tried to quit, my body isn't ready just yet to give up on the stress-induced habit. Fortunately, the ever-evolving beauty industry has invented a secret tool for those who, like me, struggle with a nail-biting or cuticle-picking habit: the structured gel manicure.

See, I'd still like to pretend I have healthy hands from palm to fingertip without the mess and maintenance of chunky, nail-damaging acrylics or the dead giveaway of press-ons. (Some press-on kits are great, but I find many of them to hinder more than they help.) Instead, I prefer to treat myself to a seat at the nail salon for a lavish structured gel manicure, swapping out my naturally E.T.-like fingertips for the look of strong, nibble-free talons.

"In the simplest of terms, a structured manicure is the addition of a thicker-viscosity builder gel beneath the coating of gel polish," says New York City-based nail stylist Julie Kandalec. "The builder gel is applied in a way so that the center (apex) of the nail is thicker, giving the nail more strength as it grows out as well as giving it a more beautiful, arched shape."

So, is this the route for your nail routine to take? Here's everything you need to know about structured gel manicures before you give them a go.

Jump ahead, or keeping reading to learn everything you need to know from A to Z about this little-known technique.

What, exactly, is a structured gel manicure?

As its name suggests, a structured gel manicure is a gel-based technique that focuses on restructuring the look and shape of your nails.

This type of manicure is meant to reinforce your natural nail with a supportive layer of rubber-based gel to protect your natural nails from breakage. It also mends broken free edges (bye-bye, frustrating hangnails) and conceals ridges and discoloration. Sounds like a dream? Here's the slight catch: structured manicures put emphasis on 3D styling rather than 2D art, which means it requires time, patience, and precision in order to create a natural-looking layer that replicates the natural arch and shape of your nail.

New York-based nail stylist Elle Gerstein compares the procedure to "laying a tile floor on a good mud job. If you don't do the mud job correctly, what's going to happen to the tile? It's going to crack."

Kandalec says structured gel manicures are beneficial for all nail types, especially nail biters or those trying to grow out damaged nails. "Having any enhancement on for a longer period of time can help the hyponychium (the skin under the free edge) reattach itself after it's been torn too low or bitten too much," she says. Gerstein adds that getting a structured gel manicure can also help align crooked nails.

How are structured gel manicures different from acrylic nails?

We know what you're thinking: Isn't this kind of like an acrylic manicure? Well, not really. The overall idea of creating a protective layer to restructure the natural nail is all the two types of manicures have in common. New York City-based nail stylist Gina Edwards says that unlike acrylics, the rubber-gel base used for a traditionally structured manicure is lighter on the nail in comparison to acrylic, plus the former takes less time to soak off when submerged into acetone than acrylic or hard gels due to its high viscosity.

With structured manicures, you have the option to either have a gel-based extension or simply cover your natural nail to prevent breakage. "Adding this protective layer allows you to continue to grow out your natural nails because it adds structure, and you can still continue to coat it with color," says Los Angeles-based nail stylist Sigourney Nuñez.

One thing to note about structured manicures is that they are pretty time-consuming — according to Gerstein, it can take at least two and a half hours to complete a new structured manicure set, not including extensions or designs. So, are they really worth spending all at time in a salon chair? Absolutely, considering how neat, clean, and natural the results look. Edwards also noted that this manicure lasts for three to six weeks, "depending on length and client activity," so it gets brownie points for its long-lasting effects. 

What are the steps of a structured manicure?

If you're going to get your first structured manicure, sit back and relax because you're going to be sitting in that chair for a couple of hours. First, your nail artist will prep your nails to create a clean and properly-shaped base. Gerstein says nail prep starts with cuticle care, but expect more than just having your cuticles pushed back (unless you request otherwise). "Your stylist will use a dry, clean file and perform what's called a 'dry manicure,' which consists of filing off the white part of the cuticle that's attached to the nail plate," she says. "That has to be removed in order for the gel base to properly adhere onto your nail." After the white layer of cuticle on your nails is filed off, your manicurist will use a cuticle scissor or a nipper to gently remove dry bits of hanging cuticle (as Kandalec says, "Only remove parts of the cuticle waving hello!").

Once the cuticles are set, Gerstein says your nails are filed into the shape desired and then the rubber gel base is placed on the nail. "When you're doing the technique of the gel, the most important difference of getting these nails done is flipping that nail over and letting the gravity of the gel fall where your natural apex would," she says. This part is especially important to the structured nail process because your apex is the strongest part of your nail, similar to "the dome of a bridge," explains Gerstein. "That is what gets your nail to grow out with no harm nor breakage," she says.

If you decide to get extensions, Kandalec says artists usually use a metallic sticker or paper form that's placed under the free edge of the nail to "build up" the gel to the desired length. Edwards adds that using a temporary form allows your technician to "work the gel starting from the tip to get the right shape." Once the extension is sculpted, the nail is cured under a UV or LED nail lamp. After curing, the form is removed and the structural gel is lightly shaped to match the rest of the nails. "Another option nail artists have is to adhere a plastic nail tip and apply gel polish over that," she says.

After that, Gerstein says you're basically finished. "Usually, you could continue with your art at that point, or you can just put on a topcoat." When applying the topcoat, Gerstein says you may notice your nail technician utilizing another nifty technique. "They flip over the finger and let the topcoat settle on the nail just like they did the sculpting gel so that you get what I call a 'volumized' effect," she says. "That's what gives the nail that plumpness without being too thick."

How much does a structured gel manicure usually cost?

All experts agree that pricing varies based on your location and the stylist you visit. With that being said, Nuñez explains that that working with gel requires a "higher level of mastery," so expect to pay anywhere from 20 to 30 percent more than the price of a full set of acrylics.

That seems a bit expensive, but it's important to step back and think about the big picture: Structured gel manicures last up to six weeks without chipping and require fewer visits to the nail salon, says Kandalec, ergo fewer salon bills and less frustrated feelings toward your own hands. In short, the key to determining whether or not this treatment could work for you really depends on what you prioritize in your own nail-care routine.

Where can I get a structured gel manicure?

Because a proper structured gel manicure takes time and isn't as easy to create as a simple single-color gel manicure, you won't be able to go to any nail salon and expect your technician to know about this technique. Gerstein says to do your research on nail artists in your area that have experience with 3D shaping rather than 2D nail art.

"It's really finding out the education of that manicurist and what they've learned," Gerstein says. "It is about you choosing someone who has studied this particular technique and can communicate with you. It's not something that happens overnight. Make sure they understand the process and educate yourself on it, because this is a the master-level skill of nail art."

So, take it from me, a chronic nail-biter and cuticle-picker: This strenuous, complicated, leave-it-to-the-experts-level technique may seem over the top, but you'll never feel more confidence in your hands, from palms to fingertips.

Source: Allure